Monthly Archives: April 2020

How to Use Rangefinder Monocular

My first experience with a golf rangefinder monocular wasn’t pleasing. I had no choice but to resort to seeking help from friends who know. Of course, that will be a whole lot of distractions, and if you were the one, you’d not enjoy it. But what happened next was what led me to be an expert.

Well, before I could master it, I read lots of books. These books, I thought, would give me the insight that I needed, and I was glad it did. After taking my time to research the subject thoroughly, I was happy that I got the basics. After that, I built on what I’ve read and sharpened my skills, and eventually, I became an expert who is now going to teach you how to get this right. 

But remember that your situation isn’t the first, nor will it be the last. The guide below is a step by step approach. Therefore, at the end you would have obtained the fundamental concept. So what I demand from you now is to be calm and read in this comprehensive guide. Let’s kick start! 

How to Use Golf Rangefinder Monocular

Concisely, a monocular is referred to as a binocular that’s cut right into 2 pieces. The specially marked lines of the lens are capable of helping a golfer determine the hole from the ball. And with the right gauging of the distance, a golfer can select the most fitting and appropriate club to be used. 

When using RM (Rangefinder monocular), you should take cognizance of the views. There are two views. These are unobstructed and obstructed views. 

In dealing with any of these views, you would need to adopt lots of techniques. For instance, by the name, unobstructed views, this is a situation whereby nothing is standing in between the golf ball and the target. 

On the flip side, an obstructed view indicates a situation where several things stand in between the target and the player. But here’s a question:  How can a person go about these different views? Let’s further break it down for simplicity. Let’s begin with an unobstructed view

Unobstructed View

Unobstructed views offer a straightforward procedure. Take, for example, the initial process is to stand behind the golf ball. Then, by utilizing rangefinder scope, you can then locate what’s regarded as the flag post that’s using the “Green line” you will find on the scope. 

The moment you can figure that out, that is finding the flap stick by utilizing the Green line. You will then need to tilt the scope so you can align the green line to the bottom of the flag. This process demands complete precision and care. 

When you are tilting the scope, be sure to align the scope in a manner that the green line would adopt a perpendicular position. This is the only way to obtain accurate results. 

By adopting the scale, take note of the number you have in your scope that relates to the peak of the flag post. The related number stands for the distance, which can also be called the yardage from the ball down to the target. Isn’t that easy? Of course, it is! 

Let’s quickly analyze the steps for this type of view:

  • Stand very close to the ball and maintain a clear view of your hole, which is your target. 
  • To one eye, the rangefinder monocular should be held 
  • Then, match that line on the viewfinder that’s been marked green to the base of the flag post. 
  • Take(note) the numbers lined alongside the flag post tip
  • Then, select the relevant golf club in line with the distance that has been specified. 

Now, to obstructed view

Obstructed View

Obstructed Views have some difficulties for users who use them. If the bottom of the flag post isn’t showing, then you’d need to adopt a different process for verifying the distance. In a situation like this, it would be nice to assume that you are utilizing a stripped flag post. Then what can you do? 

The first step you will have to take is to stand at the back of the golf ball. After that, you can then use the green line to find out the flag post. Then, you will now match the same green line to the least visible strip of the flap stick. For you to successfully match the lowest strip to the green line, you must title the scope gently and calmly. 

Next, you should hold the scope in an angle allowing the green line to be perpendicular right to the flag post. If you wouldn’t be able to accomplish that, you will have inaccurate measurements. 

Then, notice the grid number that corresponds to the peak of the flag post. Also, note the one that surfaces on the scale of the viewfinder.

When you are done identifying the grid number, then multiply it by the number of identifiable strips you find on the flag post. Finally, divide the answer you got by 8. 

What you get after dividing by 8 is the number of yardage from the ball down to the target. 

Let’s take an example:

Let’s say, the peak of the flag on the viewfinder scale is equivalent to 500. Then on the flagstick, let’s say we have 5.

The distance will be (5×500)/8 = 312.5 yards. 

Let’s quickly analyze the steps for this type of view:

  • Start by lining up the last strip of the flag post that has the lowest line in the scope of the viewfinder. 
  • Locate the number that’s corresponding with the peak of the flag post
  • What’s next is to do the counting of the number of strips to the peak of the flag post. 
  • Multiply both the number of strips and the number that lines up together with the one on the peak of the flag’s post. 
  • Divide results 
  • The result for the step by step is the distance.

Only with these two steps will you know how to utilize the gold rangefinder. Sadly, there are many who aren’t on the know. 


When utilizing a rangefinder scope right on an unobstructed view, you will figure out that these steps are simple and easy. Notwithstanding, with the obstructed view, the flag can be stripped.

But what will a person do when his flag post is lacking an obstructed view? Well, this is a cunning situation. More so, it’s not possible to arrive at an accurate result in an obstructed view. 

One of the best practices in golf is for a golfer to keep its scope clean. Always clean it with a soaked clean cloth after each use. And you will need to blow off dust away from the lenses and scope


You will have to learn this regularly; it’s not as simple as a brisk walk. The entire process broken down in this guide helps you perform better when you combine it with little practice.

How to Make a Kydex Holster

This article is a guideline on how to make a Kydex holster. The process of making a Kydex holster is not as complicated as it seems. In this article, we will be discussing how you can do so by combining backing leather with Kydex. By following our instructions, you should be able to create a Kydex holster for the pistol, or whatever fire arm you prefer to carry by your side.

Some people might be wondering why not Boltaron instead of Kydex? Well, the fact that boltaron is cheaper doesn’t mean it should be considered in place of Kydex. If you’re looking for a good finishing and perfect quality to go with your sidearm, I suggest you stick to Kydex. That said, let’s take a look at the tools/materials that will be required to get the job done.

Tools / Materials

Before beginning the process of making your Kydex holster, you might want to get these tools ready:

  • Knife
  • Foam (like that of a flat camping mattress)
  • Sanding drum
  • Pencil
  • Drill
  • Heat Gun
  • Oven (preferably an old toaster oven, it’s better than the standard kitchen oven)
  • Chicago screw
  • Gloves

What makes a Kydex Holster preferable?

Some of you might be wondering, why Kydex? a lot of gunners make use of Kydex holsters due to the advantages they have, which are as follows:

  • They are very light
  • Easy maintenance
  • Scratch-resistant
  • Waterproof
  • Unstretchable

Step 1

Begin by cutting the Plastic

The very first thing to do is to cut the plastic to the required size. Draw a layout of your pistol to find out the right amount of plastic that will be used to wrap it up. Make sure you have enough plastic, it’s better to have extra remaining than to run short of it as you progress. Cut the plastic with your knife, and then bend till it breaks.

Step 2

Spacer Gap

Look for a piece I used wood, or better still, an MDF will be just fine for you to use as a spacer when the molding of the holster begins. I’ll recommend an MDF a little bit thick, like about ½ inches thick; I think that should be most appropriate. Though using a spacer depends on what type of holster you want. If you don’t require an adjustable holster, you can do without the spacer. It’ll still be okay, though.

Step 3

Turn on your Oven

It is the step where you get to turn your oven on. Like I said earlier, I prefer to use a fairly used oven toaster instead, but you can use your oven. When I put the plastic in the oven toaster, I set it to 250° and leave for two minutes. Once the plastic has been in for two minutes, it usually curls around the edges, but if it doesn’t happen like that on most occasions.

Once the plastic is ready, you prepare for the molding process. It is advisable to use 3 to 4 layers of foam for both up and down. When it comes to molding the Kydex, a lot of people use various ways to execute the presses, but using your body weight and a 2 x 12 might be all you need to get the job done.

Step 4

The molding process

Carefully wrap the hot Kydex around the pistol, and then place it into the mold. When placing the gun, spacer and Kydex in the mold, you need to be exact and fast, even though it might take you a bit of time to do it appropriately. If you feel that the Kydex is not hot enough, or you didn’t get it right, feel free to reheat it.

Once this is done, carefully exert pressure on the mold for it to produce a proper form. Make sure you exert pressure on the mould for up to 10 minutes, it won’t be ideal if you remove the pressure too early, as this might cause the Kydex not to fit correctly with the pistol.

Once the 10 minutes is up, you can remove the pressure and behold; the Kydex holster should be in place. Due to some excess plastic that does form after this process, I’ll suggest that trim the holster for it to stand out.

Step 5

Making the Recess that will serve as a Belt Attachment

The next process is making a recess for the holster that will help it to attach to your belt. Let your spacers be up to 3 layers of Kydex scrap.

Use the heat gun to heat behind the holster till it is soft, then put in the spacer, after doing do, put everything back in the mould, and press by exerting pressure on it for some minutes. A suitable recess should be produced after this. Make sure you trim it properly so that you can easily draw out your pistol from the holster. In most cases, the Dremel’s sanding drum is applicable in this finishing process.

Step 6

Filling the Spacer gap with a Spacer

This step is applicable if you used a spacer. For those that used a spacer when molding the holster, you’ll also need another spacer to fill the spacer gaps in the already finished holster. Since you used a spacer of ½ inches thick in the earlier process of molding, then you’ll need something a tiny bit thicker for this spacer. A fuel hose that is a little bit thicker than ½ inches should be able to do the trick.

Make use of your Drill

Take a drill and drill a few holes into the holster, after doing that fit in the spacers and make use of a Chicago screw to hold them in place. You should have a Kydex Holster ready for use.


I hope this guideline has helped you pick up an understanding of how to make a Kydex holster. Making a Kydex holster might sound complicated, but like they always say “practice makes perfect”, it’s all a gradual process. So I suggest you use this guideline as a yardstick to kick-off the process.