This article is a guideline on how to make a Kydex holster. The process of making a Kydex holster is not as complicated as it seems. In this article, we will be discussing how you can do so by combining backing leather with Kydex. By following our instructions, you should be able to create a Kydex holster for the pistol, or whatever fire arm you prefer to carry by your side.
Some people might be wondering why not Boltaron instead of Kydex? Well, the fact that boltaron is cheaper doesn’t mean it should be considered in place of Kydex. If you’re looking for a good finishing and perfect quality to go with your sidearm, I suggest you stick to Kydex. That said, let’s take a look at the tools/materials that will be required to get the job done.
Tools / Materials
Before beginning the process of making your Kydex holster, you might want to get these tools ready:
- Foam (like that of a flat camping mattress)
- Sanding drum
- Heat Gun
- Oven (preferably an old toaster oven, it’s better than the standard kitchen oven)
- Chicago screw
What makes a Kydex Holster preferable?
Some of you might be wondering, why Kydex? a lot of gunners make use of Kydex holsters due to the advantages they have, which are as follows:
- They are very light
- Easy maintenance
Begin by cutting the Plastic
The very first thing to do is to cut the plastic to the required size. Draw a layout of your pistol to find out the right amount of plastic that will be used to wrap it up. Make sure you have enough plastic, it’s better to have extra remaining than to run short of it as you progress. Cut the plastic with your knife, and then bend till it breaks.
Look for a piece I used wood, or better still, an MDF will be just fine for you to use as a spacer when the molding of the holster begins. I’ll recommend an MDF a little bit thick, like about ½ inches thick; I think that should be most appropriate. Though using a spacer depends on what type of holster you want. If you don’t require an adjustable holster, you can do without the spacer. It’ll still be okay, though.
Turn on your Oven
It is the step where you get to turn your oven on. Like I said earlier, I prefer to use a fairly used oven toaster instead, but you can use your oven. When I put the plastic in the oven toaster, I set it to 250° and leave for two minutes. Once the plastic has been in for two minutes, it usually curls around the edges, but if it doesn’t happen like that on most occasions.
Once the plastic is ready, you prepare for the molding process. It is advisable to use 3 to 4 layers of foam for both up and down. When it comes to molding the Kydex, a lot of people use various ways to execute the presses, but using your body weight and a 2 x 12 might be all you need to get the job done.
The molding process
Carefully wrap the hot Kydex around the pistol, and then place it into the mold. When placing the gun, spacer and Kydex in the mold, you need to be exact and fast, even though it might take you a bit of time to do it appropriately. If you feel that the Kydex is not hot enough, or you didn’t get it right, feel free to reheat it.
Once this is done, carefully exert pressure on the mold for it to produce a proper form. Make sure you exert pressure on the mould for up to 10 minutes, it won’t be ideal if you remove the pressure too early, as this might cause the Kydex not to fit correctly with the pistol.
Once the 10 minutes is up, you can remove the pressure and behold; the Kydex holster should be in place. Due to some excess plastic that does form after this process, I’ll suggest that trim the holster for it to stand out.
Making the Recess that will serve as a Belt Attachment
The next process is making a recess for the holster that will help it to attach to your belt. Let your spacers be up to 3 layers of Kydex scrap.
Use the heat gun to heat behind the holster till it is soft, then put in the spacer, after doing do, put everything back in the mould, and press by exerting pressure on it for some minutes. A suitable recess should be produced after this. Make sure you trim it properly so that you can easily draw out your pistol from the holster. In most cases, the Dremel’s sanding drum is applicable in this finishing process.
Filling the Spacer gap with a Spacer
This step is applicable if you used a spacer. For those that used a spacer when molding the holster, you’ll also need another spacer to fill the spacer gaps in the already finished holster. Since you used a spacer of ½ inches thick in the earlier process of molding, then you’ll need something a tiny bit thicker for this spacer. A fuel hose that is a little bit thicker than ½ inches should be able to do the trick.
Make use of your Drill
Take a drill and drill a few holes into the holster, after doing that fit in the spacers and make use of a Chicago screw to hold them in place. You should have a Kydex Holster ready for use.
I hope this guideline has helped you pick up an understanding of how to make a Kydex holster. Making a Kydex holster might sound complicated, but like they always say “practice makes perfect”, it’s all a gradual process. So I suggest you use this guideline as a yardstick to kick-off the process.